My Grandmother’s Golden Matzo Pancakes Are a Passover Should

My grandmother grew up in a family wealthy with Ashkenazi Jewish cooking, which I might by no means have recognized have been it not for a surviving doc her twin brother, my great-uncle Shush, as soon as wrote to catalog the meals of their youth. I’ve written about this letter earlier than, in my article on tips on how to make chopped liver, however let’s simply say that Shush was not a fan of lots of these meals, plenty of which concerned offal.

Of all of the dishes their Latvian-immigrant mom made by hand, in the present day I acknowledge the names of only some—and gefilte fish is acquainted to me not as a result of my great-grandmother’s recipe survived by the generations, however as a result of my mother would typically purchase it in a jar. The failure of conventional meals like miltz (spleen), p’tcha (calf’s-foot aspic), and lungen (lungs) to keep up a foothold in my household is not a lot of a shock, given how a lot Shush, and presumably his siblings, hated them.

However there was one dish that he clearly beloved—matzo pancakes, which he known as pompishkehs.* Throughout Passover, he wrote, “we ate pancakes fabricated from matzo meal sprinkled with powdered sugar…a meal to be classed with the gustatory creations of all time…. Made hotcakes look like an aberration.” The primary time I learn his letter, my coronary heart leapt on the point out of pancakes comprised of matzo meal: I do know these! They have been the one, the solely, dish my sister and I begged for once we visited our bubbe, who would cook dinner us a batch in a matter of minutes and serve them with granulated sugar on the aspect to sprinkle on high.

*The closest factor I might discover after a fast net seek for “pompishkeh” was a Ukrainian fritter known as a pampushka, which, being yeasted, would not be kosher for Passover. In Claudia Roden’s The Ebook of Jewish Meals, she makes use of the phrases chremslach and bubeleh for these matzo pancakes.

Right here, lastly, was my cultural inheritance: little ovals of egg and crushed unleavened cracker. Modest certainly, but in addition inarguably tasty. A meal to be classed with the gustatory creations of all time, as Uncle Shush hailed them? I would not go that far—foie gras, tacos, and sushi would rightly be offended by the notion—however they actually provide an ease-to-deliciousness ratio that is arduous to beat.

Begin by smashing matzo into irregular bits and items. How small you make them is a matter of private selection—I like a mixture, with some nice bits and a few chunky, however you may go very nice, all the best way right down to the scale of matzo meal (the finely floor stuff that is additionally used to make matzo balls).

Subsequent, soak them in chilly water for a minute or two to melt them. Drain the water, combine in crushed eggs and a pinch of salt, then cook dinner dollops of what I suppose we will name the “batter” in a buttered pan.

The matzo features just like the floury part of a pancake or fritter batter, however as a result of the flour used to make the matzo was already hydrated and cooked when the matzo was made, getting it moist once more and binding it with egg is all that must be carried out this second time.

A bonus is that every one the nice and cozy, toasty notes of the already-baked matzo wind up within the remaining pancakes, that are then griddled, identical to traditional pancakes, leading to layers of browned taste.

Readers aware of Jewish meals might acknowledge these pancakes as a type of matzo brei, an egg-and-matzo creation that takes many shapes and is available in each candy and savory varieties. I might agree that they’re, or at the very least appear to be, kind of the identical factor. The principle distinction is that matzo pancakes need to be formed like, nicely, pancakes, and may be made with both damaged matzo, as in my recipe right here, or matzo meal. So far as I do know, matzo brei would by no means name for matzo meal, and it may be made extra like an egg scramble, or a big, cooked egg-and-matzo mass, or something in between.

I have been cooking matzo pancakes lots not too long ago for my son, who’s one and a half now. Not solely is it one of many best breakfasts I can toss collectively for him, it is also the one unbroken chain of recipe heritage I’ve to move on. It isn’t a lot, however you would not comprehend it from how enthusiastically he gobbles them up.

April 2019

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