’E Curti is a small, superb osteria in a city referred to as Sant’Anastasia, which is perched on the slopes of Vesuvius about 13km north-east of Naples. We made a detour and stopped there two summers in the past, because of the trusty Gradual Meals osteria information (though no because of my navigating). One of many specialities at ’E Curti is spaghetti with dried nuts and fruit, capers, olives, herbs and an area number of tomatoes referred to as pomodori piennoli. The dish happened as a means of utilizing up the dried fruit and nuts left over from Christmas, and its identify, ’O sicchje ra munnezza, is a humorous nod to this resourcefulness – ’O sicchje that means “bin” and ra munnezza “garbage” in Neapolitan dialect.
Such joking is feasible solely if you’re assured of how good one thing is. And the mix of tomatoes collapsed in extra-virgin olive oil and the feel from the assorted nuts, the slight sweetness from the fruit and the defiantly savoury capers and olives, all held in a twisted internet of spaghetti, is extraordinarily good. Which is in no small half as a result of native olive oil and flavour of the pomodori piennoli, significantly as a result of they are often hung and stored for months, wrinkling and creating in richness. That stated, it’s completely a dish that may be recreated with different tomatoes, particularly candy cherry or datterini tomatoes, and even tinned plum tomatoes (that you simply just like the style of) drained of their juice. With the ability to recreate that is additionally because of a recipe immediately from ’E Curti itself that’s great in its specificity, suggesting (amongst different substances): 16 pine nuts, 10 raisins, 18 capers, eight olives, half a kilo of tomatoes and 1kg spaghetti for eight individuals.
Studying the recipe, I used to be reminded of a pal and cook dinner who as soon as gave me a recipe for doughnuts by which he specified the exact quantity, in grams, of jam to be syringed into every one. Proportions for pleasure, he famous. I had by no means recognized him to be something like so particular, so I knew it should be necessary. And he was proper – they had been proportions for pleasure. It’s the similar with this recipe for ’O sicchje ra munnezza: the substances may appear modest, however they work. And bear in mind, they don’t seem to be a lot an encompassing sauce, however a well-flavoured, well-balanced condiment to go together with spaghetti; search for a good-quality model of pasta, extruded via bronze, so it has the feel of best sandpaper.
In fact, you may resolve your proportions for pleasure are wildly completely different from these famous right here. You may want 15 raisins as a substitute of 5, say, or to measure your capers by the handful – you understand your substances and your personal style. Don’t, although, skimp on the extra-virgin olive oil: it’s the basis of the recipe. Use the most effective bottle you’ve and ensure to maintain checking that the flame beneath the pan is just not too excessive. A gradual sizzle brings out the most effective in these substances, even when they’re garbage.
Garbage spaghetti – ’O sicchje ra munnezza
Prep 15 min
Prepare dinner 10 min
Serves 4
6-8 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 small garlic clove, peeled and crushed gently, so it’s cut up however nonetheless entire
1 tbsp raisins, soaked in heat water for 10 minutes
35g walnuts, roughly chopped
35g hazelnuts, roughly chopped
8 pine nuts
9 capers
250g cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped
A pinch of dried oregano
4 stoned olives, roughly chopped
A small handful of parsley, minced
400g spaghetti
Convey a big pan of water to a boil for the spaghetti. In a big frying pan set over a medium-low warmth, heat the oil and garlic for a few minutes, then add the drained raisins, chopped nuts, pine nuts and capers, and let all the things cook dinner gently for a couple of minutes.
Add the tomatoes, elevate the warmth in order that they sizzle for 4 to 5 minutes, then add the oregano, olives and parsley. Stir, then take the pan off the warmth and canopy.
Salt the pasta water, stir, add the spaghetti and boil till al dente. As soon as it’s prepared, drain the spaghetti or – higher nonetheless – use a spider sieve to elevate it immediately into the sauce. Toss vigorously and serve instantly.
