On the tip of Cape Cod, on a slim strip of land 60 miles out to sea, lies Provincetown, Massachusetts—the tip of the world (or, at the very least, New England), and the place I’ve referred to as residence for shut to 2 years. Locals would possibly name me a “washashore,” however I really feel like I’m precisely the place I’m purported to be.
That’s as a result of Ptown is (per capita) the queerest city within the nation and probably the most sought-out trip spots for anybody on the LGBTQIA+ spectrum. It’s a spot of extraordinary pure magnificence (the dunes! the seashores! the gardens! the structure!) in addition to a playground for freedom and pleasure. The primary drag, Business Avenue, runs the size of the city alongside the bay facet and is residence to the vast majority of the eating places, golf equipment, outlets, and galleries. Through the summer time, it overflows with individuals of all flavors of gender expression, kink, and sexuality.
I landed in Ptown after 20 years in skilled kitchens led to epic burnout. In 2021, mid-pandemic, I offered Willa Jean, my restaurant in New Orleans, and headed north. Love was ready, as was eventual heartbreak and, in the end, restoration and therapeutic in Ptown.
I’m unsure if it was the sundown G&Ts with pals on the seashore, the impromptu clambakes, or the slices of pizza I devoured on the street after raucous nights out, however consuming my method via town has taught me that to be a queer particular person in Ptown is to be a part of a group. Each restaurant and bar contributes to this spirit, and these are a few of my favourite locations.
The Nor’East Beer Backyard is an unassuming outside area on Business Avenue that serves a number of the finest meals and cocktails in Ptown. That’s since you by no means get bored: The culinary “theme” adjustments every season; this summer time, it’s “mild Italian,” which suggests you may savor dishes like mushroom pâté, burrata with fried dough, and minty brown-butter mussels.
Sal’s is by the water within the West Finish, which makes for spectacular views. Money-only and sometimes tough to succeed in by telephone, Sal’s is well worth the hassle of getting a reservation, whether or not you’re reserving dinner with pals or a date. Don’t skip the cauliflower Caesar with child romaine, which I like to order alongside the charred octopus with garbanzo beans and smoked chile oil.
This inviting little bakery within the West Finish makes quite a lot of breakfast and lunch sandwiches—nice for a handheld meal whereas strolling about, or as seashore picnic fare—however I all the time go for the pastries. Spring for a wedge of key lime tart, or seize a cookie or a slice of espresso cake.
Shirtless muscle gays, margarita-sipping drag queens, straight vacationers who like to occasion—Ptowners of all stripes congregate each afternoon on the final pregame referred to as Tea Dance (or simply “Tea”), held on the Boatslip Resort from 4 to 7 p.m. The legendary bartender Maria reigns over the suitable facet of the bar, the tip closest to the water, and can fortunately begin you off with the Planter’s Punch, their official cocktail.
After Tea, many revelers flock to Strangers & Saints, housed in an unbelievable 1850’s Greek Revival homestead. The Ken Fulk-designed inside, and well-made cocktails make for a dependably pleasing second cease. The meals goes properly past primary bar snacks with dishes like meatballs with salsa verde and cucumber kimchi (my go-to dish), which pair properly with the charred shishito peppers or spicy Moroccan carrots. Consuming at Strangers & Saints seems like being welcomed into the house of somebody with impeccable style who loves throwing dinner events.
Lengthy earlier than Provincetown was an LGBT+ mecca, it was a Portuguese fishing village. Remnants of that previous may be discovered on the Mayflower, the place conventional Portuguese flavors endure in dishes just like the Portuguese kale soup, made with spicy linguica sausage and pink beans. Its compulsory sidekick is an order of garlic bread, and should you’re nonetheless feeling peckish, a dozen steamers, a Cape basic of brothy soft-shell clams that you just dunk one after the other in melted butter. Household-run with a no-reservations coverage, the Mayflower has an old-school diner really feel with a down-home friendliness to match. In addition they occur to make one of the best Manhattans on the town.
Provincetown has a big, vibrant Jamaican inhabitants—many first arrived as seasonal staff and wound up making Ptown a year-round residence. A little bit off the overwhelmed path is Irie Eats, which provides spicy Jamaican meals that fuels my summer time season. My favourite dishes within the common rotation are the curry goat, jerk hen or pork, salt fish, and oxtails—all of which include rice and pink beans, and slaw. It’s a grab-and-go vibe, however they do have a small outside seating space to soak within the solar (and the flavour).
My private “finest sandwich store” award goes to Pop + Dutch. Their slogan is “Sandwiches. Salads. Lube,” and their tiny market promoting classic, typically barely titillating textiles and artwork solely provides to the enchantment. The store carries every thing you want for a day on the seashore or pool, together with sunscreen and, sure, lube. The fridges are stocked with recent potato salad, pimento cheese, hen salad, dolmas, and quite a lot of drinks together with a terrific Arnold Palmer. However the sandwiches are the principle occasion (these days, I’ve been loving specials like turkey topped with Cool Ranch Doritos and ranch-flavored mayo). Within the morning, they make a imply scrambled egg sandwich on brioche, however slugabeds be warned: It’s solely out there from 9 to 10:30 a.m.
The grande dame of Ptown is Crown & Anchor, an leisure venue that sits within the heart of city. Housing six bars and leisure venues, a restaurant, a pool membership, and a resort, it caters to guests and locals of all sorts. In 2021, it received new homeowners who have been decided to show the advanced right into a secure (and worthwhile!) area for queer artists, musicians, and cooks, amongst others. The restaurant idea adjustments every day, whereas the oyster bar is open seven days per week. Brunch (Thursday via Sunday) is hosted by yours actually and includes a New Orleans-meets-New England menu. Count on my well-known biscuits and gravy, plus stay drag performances fueled by expertise and fantasy.
The brilliant neon lobster signal, one of many Cape’s most recognizable photographs since 1979, welcomes stampedes of seafood lovers to the Lobster Pot. Tanks of recent lobsters? Verify. Ocean views? examine. Constantly pleasant service? Verify. The plan of motion right here is to enterprise upstairs to the “prime of the pot,” snag a seat on the bar, and kick issues off with an ideal bloody mary. Then, it’s lobster rolls throughout—or, for the lobster-averse, a wide-reaching menu of all kinds of fish and shellfish you can order pan-roasted, grilled, stuffed, baked, blackened, fried, and extra. There are additionally to-go dishes across the nook at Lobster Pot Specific (5 Ryder Avenue).
Completely happy hour on the Pink Inn is peak Ptown. From 2 to 4 p.m. every day, you may get pleasure from a uncooked bar menu, cocktails, and wine specials—all on a deck overlooking the seashore that’s blessed with one of the best pure mild on the town. If oysters received’t minimize it, chase them with heartier dishes like panko-crusted shrimp with candy chili sauce, bacon-wrapped oysters, or shrimp remoulade salad.
Legend has it that Provincetown, due to its distant location, was once a hideaway for smugglers and pirates. That’s why Puritans started calling it Helltown, a nickname that impressed the title of this restaurant that blends worldwide flavors with New England substances. There’s truffle-scented, South American-spiced lobster risotto studded with peas and mushrooms. And if lobster isn’t it for you, Helltown does an unbelievable pork vindaloo that comes with mango chutney, basmati rice, and naan to sop all of it up.
Provincetown Brewing Firm is fueled by group activism, and its enterprise mannequin displays that. Not solely does the brewery donate 15 % of proceeds to LGBTQIA+ and Outer Cape causes; it additionally buys from queer-owned companies and farmers. I’m massive on their artichoke-cheese dip and jerk hen sandwich, which I wash down with a flight of no matter PBC beers occur to be on faucet. Preserve a watch out for themed events, trivia nights, “fag-out Fridays,” ladies’s night time, and even a “yappy hour” for canine.
If Tea is the place the occasion begins in Ptown, the Atlantic Home (aka “A-Home”) is the place it ends (or at the very least the place final name occurs). Most patrons do not know that the institution is a contender for the oldest homosexual bar in America, having been in steady operation for over two centuries. It attracts the largest crowd of any bar in Ptown and has three areas: little bar, macho bar, and the dance ground, the place the lights are low, the music is loud, and little by little the garments appear to vanish.
Spiritus pizza is an previous devoted and has grow to be the staple cease between the occasion and the after occasion—a lot in order that the hour from 1 to 2 a.m. is named “pizza dance.” Spiritus is the one late meals choice on the town, and after final name on the bars, the pizzeria fills up with hungry crowds, who overflow onto Business Avenue to experience what’s primarily a nightly pizza occasion. There are three New York-style slices: cheese, pepperoni, or Greek (money solely!).
Chalice is a brand new favourite wine and beer bar on the manicured garden of the Land’s Finish Inn, which sits atop the tallest level on the finish of the Cape. Full with a fireplace pit and beautiful views of Provincetown and past, it makes a great pitstop in your technique to Tea or pre-dinner cocktails. Look out for the pink martini flag: In the event you see it flying, then Chalice is open and properly well worth the uphill stroll.
