Made-from-scratch brown sugar is not a brand new concept by any stretch, however previously, it wasn’t one thing I ever cared about. Partly, I used to be skeptical {that a} “do-it-yourself” mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses might in some way style any higher than “actual” brown sugar…a mixture of refined white sugar and mass-produced molasses.
My logic was that, until you bothered to start out with a jar of notably scrumptious small-batch molasses, there have been no actual positive aspects available—a logic that fell aside the second a good friend of mine known as in a panic as a result of she was out of brown sugar for her favourite dessert, with visitors all however on her doorstep. Guiding her by the method of constructing the swap was straightforward, she did not need to drop the whole lot to drive to the shop, her bourbon pecan layer cake turned out lovely, and I realized the true worth of do-it-yourself brown sugar: expedience.
In the event you ever run out of brown sugar, falling again on a jar of molasses to whip up an emergency batch is a wonderful plan B—as long as you go about it the best method. Firstly, meaning utilizing true molasses and never blackstrap, which ought to by no means be utilized in any recipe until it is known as for by identify (full report on that subject right here). The second half of the equation is definitely understanding the equation. See, store-bought brown sugar is about 10% molasses by weight, however that does not imply you may simply multiply a given weight of white sugar by 0.1 to find out how a lot molasses is required. At first blush, that calculation makes excellent sense (and that is the formulation you will see bandied about most frequently on-line), nevertheless it winds up making the brown sugar too gentle. Even lighter than gentle brown sugar, which is what most recipes keep in mind.*
Except a recipe calls particularly for “darkish brown sugar,” it is protected to imagine gentle brown sugar is what the writer supposed. Making darkish brown sugar is about including not simply extra molasses but additionally darker molasses, and, for the aim of this put up, that is a bit extra sophisticated a subject than I am ready to unpack.
For a cup of white sugar (seven ounces), 10% is about one tablespoon (3/4 ounce), which is fairly handy for people measuring by quantity. However as soon as the white sugar and molasses are blended collectively, you have received 7 3/4 ounces complete, making that molasses simply 9% of the whole weight. Now, you might be considering, “Shut sufficient,” however within the realm of baking, that may be a harmful factor. With no full 10% molasses content material, do-it-yourself variations will behave extra like white sugar than brown, which may have a big effect on cookies specifically, altering how they unfold, rise, and brown. You possibly can try a full breakdown of these variations right here.
With a view to precisely mix your personal gentle brown sugar at house, it is necessary to do not forget that for nonetheless a lot molasses you add, that a lot white sugar wants to return out. Going again to my earlier instance, seven ounces of sugar must be diminished to six 1/4 ounces, in order that 3/4 ounce molasses will probably be 10% of the whole weight. Spelling it out sounds sophisticated, however do not overthink it. All it is advisable keep in mind is that 6 1/4 ounces of white sugar plus 3/4 ounce molasses equals seven ounces of brown sugar.
You can also make up an enormous batch that can preserve for a couple of month, however you probably have a scale, you may calculate precisely how a lot white sugar and molasses you will want to interchange any given amount of brown sugar. Simply multiply the load of the brown sugar by 10% to learn the way a lot molasses you will want, then subtract that quantity from the entire to find out the load of the white sugar you will want. In the event you occur to have any calmly toasted sugar readily available, maybe left over from blind-baking a pie, it may be used like white sugar so as to add some caramel notes that can give do-it-yourself brown sugar a extra nuanced sweetness.
The precise coloration of the outcomes will rely in your particular model of molasses and whether or not or not the sugar is toasted, however you may sometimes count on it to have a considerably redder undertone than conventional brown sugar (probably as a result of deeper brown shades discovered in additional concentrated types of molasses). Ounce for ounce, do-it-yourself brown sugar is extra voluminous than what you discover on the retailer, just because it hasn’t had an opportunity to compact over time. However, as long as it is measured precisely, in each preparation and use, it should behave in a lot the identical method.
On the left, we now have samples from a batch of my favourite One-Bowl Oatmeal Cookies made with industrial brown sugar, and, on the best, cookies made with DIY brown sugar. Whereas they unfold a bit extra irregularly total, the latter cookies nonetheless averaged about three inches throughout. If I all of the sudden found I used to be 86’d on brown sugar, I would gladly take that discrepancy over the choice of getting no cookies in any respect.
I will probably all the time desire the comfort of economic brown sugar, which is each inexpensive, dependable, and engaging. However when push involves shove, figuring out the way to make a comparable brown sugar from scratch is a trick all bakers ought to sustain their sleeves.