Our second advantageous eating lunch at a Margaret River vineyard was at Vasse Felix. That is the oldest vineyard in Margeret River, established in 1967 (so in truth not outdated for European requirements). Like most wineries in Margaret River, it focuses on Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, with additionally some Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Shiraz. The local weather may be very gentle, with small temperature variations between day and evening or between summer season and winter, with a dry summer season. The local weather is considerably much like a dry classic in Bordeaux. We had the tasting menu (6 programs for AU$ 120) with ‘premier’ wine pairing (4 glasses for $45). There’s additionally a Filius wine pairing for $39 or an ‘icon’ wine pairing for $75, wherein the Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are downgraded/upgraded. As I had tasted the ‘icon’ Heytesbury Chardonnay of the present classic and thought it was too younger (consuming it might be ‘child homicide’), I requested whether or not it might be attainable to improve the 2023 Chardonnay to the 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay (listed for $50 per glass on the wine listing). This was not attainable as an improve, however I may after all order the 2019 Heytesbury along with the wine pairing, and that’s what I did (giving the 2023 Chardonnay to Kees, who was the designated driver so may solely drink one or two glasses anyway).
We began the pairing with a standard methodology glowing Blanc de Blanc, 100% Chardonnay. Opposite to the glowing at Wills Area, this was a ‘severe’ conventional methodology wine, aged for 21 months on the lees (quite than solely 3), and fairly good.
It was a great pairing for the squid ink pierogi, a Polish kind of dumpling, full of sausage and potato, and served with beurre noisette, and salmon roe.
The next wine was the 2022 Sauvignon Blanc, aged in oak barrels, and subsequently extra structured and fewer fragrant than a ‘common’ Sauvignon Blanc.
This was an inexpensive pairing with the cured however in any other case uncooked kingfish with rhubarb, herb oil, and pink pepper. The kingfish was stated to be cured in ginger, however I may not likely detect any ginger. I consider curing with a bit extra salt would have improved the flavour. Regardless of the contemporary substances (rhubarb, pink pepper, and ginger), the dish had a creamy profile total, and would have labored higher with a extra creamy wine. The dish made the wine barely astringent.
The next wine was the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, which has been produced since 1972. It’s truly a mix with 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec, and 1% Merlot, aged 18 months in French barriques (34% new). With out meals the wine was a bit younger and the oak overpowering the fruit a bit.
It was nonetheless a wonderful pairing with the meat with black garlic sauce; the dish actually introduced out the fruit within the wine. The meat (I consider it was blade steak) had been cooked sous vide after which completed within the oven. It wanted the softened tendon (gelatin) and the sauce, as the meat by itself was barely dry. There was additionally some laminated potato with tofu, which did have a great potato taste, however in any other case was a bit bland (and I’m not certain in regards to the function of the tofu).
The subsequent serving was a palate cleanser of a yuzu marsmellow filled with mango icecream. This palate cleanser was obligatory as Vasse Felix needed to serve the (in accordance with them) extra elegant Cabernet Sauvignon earlier than the extra fragrant Chardonnay. I may not likely make out the yuzu, but it surely was good.
Subsequent was the 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay, which was certainly much less ‘child homicide’ than the 2023 I had tasted earlier than. Though it additionally appeared to me that 2019 was much less highly effective as a classic than 2023, though after all it might solely be an trustworthy comparability to check the 2019 with the 2023 how it will likely be in 4 years’ time. In any case a properly balanced Chardonnay. Vasse Felix is among the few producers in Margaret River that also does malolactic on his Chardonnays, and I applaud that, because the acids are in any other case too aggressive for my style.
This was a great pairing for the toothfish, lacquered with miso and hen inventory, with eggplant mousse, and a potato dumpling with herb oil. The toothfish had been cured first and had a wonderful texture and taste. The eggplant mousse was very gentle in taste, and the potato dumpling was too rubbery (in all probability by utilizing an excessive amount of flour, a typical mistake when making potato gnocchi) and missing in taste. The pairing with the ‘common’ Chardonnay that Kees had, didn’t work both, as a result of the wine couldn’t deal with the glaze on the fish (partly as a result of it was served too chilly).
The dessert was a crumbled parfait/semifreddo of toasted rice and pear, with kiwi and elderflower. The flavors and textures had been good.
Meals, wine, and repair had been all good, however the dishes didn’t meet the expectations I had due to the repute of the restaurant and the worth.
