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What is the Precise Distinction Between Yams and Candy Potatoes?



Knobbly and brown, with little, wispy, hair-like roots capturing off at random, yams aren’t the stateliest of meals. However when you get previous their barely odd look, you might very nicely fall in love. That’s, when you even cross paths with a actual yam. Chances are high, except you’re doing most of your grocery procuring at African, Caribbean, or Asian markets, or grew up consuming and cooking these tubers, what you think about after I say “yam” is definitely simply an orange candy potato.

As I dug into just a bit bit in my area information to candy potatoes—approach too many puns right here, I do know—the follow of calling candy potatoes yams began within the early Twentieth-century, when Southern farmers launched softer-fleshed orange candy potatoes to the American market. Farmers referred to as orange tubers yams to distinguish them from the white-fleshed candy potatoes folks have been already acquainted with. The identify caught, and all these years later portion of us nonetheless couldn’t level out an actual yam in a lineup. And that’s a disgrace, as a result of their taste and texture are fully distinctive, and so they take nicely to all kinds of cooking strategies and seasonings. A real yam is way starchier than a candy potato, with a milder sweetness that turns into solely barely extra pronounced when the foundation is cooked.

The Historical past of the Candy Potato-Yam Confusion

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Calling candy potatoes yams in America wasn’t only a money-making ploy. For the primary enslaved West Africans forcibly dropped at America, candy potatoes supplied as near a style of dwelling as they have been going to get. Although sweeter and extra watery when cooked, these orange candy potatoes resembled the yams of Africa each in texture and look. “Slavers transporting captives from [West Africa] on the Center Passage provisioned themselves with yams enough for the voyages,” wrote culinary historian Jessica B. Harris in an op-ed on the cultural significance of the yam. “However as soon as ashore in additional temperate America, the slaves discovered that the African tuber was unavailable, and thus substituted it with the candy potato—resulting in centuries of botanical and gastronomic confusion.”

Actually, yams aren’t remotely just like candy potatoes. They belong to the Dioscoreaceae household of flowering vegetation, and develop in temperate and tropical climates, together with in Africa, Asia, and the Caribbean. A yam is the extraordinarily starchy tuber on the base of winding, bright-green herbaceous vines. Whereas candy potatoes usually don’t develop for much longer or thicker than a child’s forearm, yams can develop to be greater than six ft lengthy, and on uncommon events weigh in at over 150 kilos. That’s a really, very large tuber, and evidently, not the form of produce you’ll discover squeezed right into a grocery bin. There are greater than 800 styles of yams, and a majority of these are cultivated in Africa, with Nigerian farmers producing greater than half of the world’s provide.

A few of the commonest yam varieties you’ll come throughout embody the favored white and yellow yams native to Africa, which resemble massive potatoes in form. In Asian markets you’ll discover Chinese language and Japanese yams, which have lighter-brown pores and skin, and are cylindrical. As a result of yams are grown and eaten in numerous elements of the world, strategies for cooking fluctuate enormously from one kitchen to the following.

The best way to Purchase and Cook dinner Yams

Yams are very resilient, and so they journey nicely. Because of this, for essentially the most half, you don’t have to fret about unintentionally choosing up a yam on the retailer that’s already spoiled—not like the cursed-but-seemingly-fine avocado that’s at all times rotten within the center, regardless of how stunning its exterior is. If a yam’s pores and skin is unbroken, and the foundation doesn’t have any mushy or mushy spots, take into account it good to go.

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In Jamaica, you’ll discover yams slowly roasting, pores and skin nonetheless on, over an open hearth. After they’re finished, the inside will be simply pierced with a knife, however the pores and skin isn’t burnt—a powerful feat. The meaty flesh of the yam, barely smoky from the hearth, is served alongside flavorful chunks of jerk pork, hen, and different meats.

In Nigeria, the place so lots of the world’s yams are grown and the tuber is central to on a regular basis life, they’re cooked into porridges, and cubed and stewed slowly with tomatoes, peanuts, greens, and spices. They’re additionally boiled then pounded right into a model of fufu, considered one of West Africa’s most iconic dishes. The doughy, starchy combination is ideal for absorbing sauce, and is eaten alongside kind of all the things.

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The yams eaten within the Caribbean and all through Africa are bigger and extra bulbous than Chinese language yams, that are also called nagaimo in Japan. In China, the yams are sliced into rounds and boiled in soup till tender, stir-fried with contemporary greens, blended into savory steamed truffles, and extra. Yow will discover wild Chinese language yams pre-sliced and sun-dried in Chinese language grocery shops. The dried yams, pictured above, are generally known as huai shan, and cooks reconstitute them in wealthy broths, simmering together with hen, pork, goji berries, and dried jujubes.

Chinese language and Chinese language-American cooks like Lisa Lin, a meals blogger and skilled on Chinese language cooking, additionally make the most of a yam referred to as yamaimo or East Asian mountain yam. This selection has a sticky, barely slippery texture, and is usually sliced finely and eaten uncooked. “One method to put together the yams is to boil them in a soup,” says Lin. “My mother (the kitchen matriarch) says that the very best ones for boiling are smaller ones or those that look very twisted and crooked—normally present in farmers’ markets. They do not break down and switch to mush after they’re boiled.”

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In Japan, amongst different functions, the starchy nagaimo and yamaimo yams are grated into the batter of okonomiyaki—chewy, savory pancakes showered in toppings and a mix of a candy and savory sauce and mayonnaise. The starchiness of the grated yams helps bind the pancake batter collectively, with out including an excessive amount of moisture.

I’ve solely touched on the very tip of the yam-shaped iceberg. There are a whole lot of types of yams on the market, utilized in extra culturally numerous preparations than I may rely. The knobbly root takes nicely to frying, braising, sautéing, boiling, roasting, and extra. You simply should resolve the place to start out.

October 2019

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