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Saturday, July 20, 2024

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Zoldering* – Stefan’s Connoisseur Weblog


Zoldering is certainly one of my favourite eating places in Amsterdam. This was my fifth dinner there, however unusually sufficient that is the primary weblog I’m writing about it. Zoldering was established in 2019 by Tomas Bron (chef), Job Seuren (sommelier), Wout Jans, and Joost Clarijs. They’ve labored at Michelin-starred eating places like Librije, Bokkedoorns, and Ciel Bleu, and determined to start out for themselves. They needed to create an informal ‘neighborhood’ restaurant with the standard of meals and the wine on the degree of a Michelin-starred restaurant, they usually have succeeded! In 2022 they obtained a well-deserved Michelin star ‘accidentally’ (as that was not their aim, though in fact they like the popularity). It may well’t be a shock that Zoldering may be very standard; it’s full each night time. You may reserve a desk from one month upfront, and reservations replenish in a short time. That is the primary motive why I haven’t been to Zoldering extra usually. They do preserve some tables for walk-ins, so it’s value calling for a similar day or simply dropping by.

Zoldering doesn’t have a tasting menu, only a brief à la carte menu. There are 6 totally different small bites like oysters or toast with one thing on it (round 5 euros), 5 totally different starters (17-23 euros), 6 totally different mains (26-42 euros), 6 totally different cheeses (4 euros every), and 5 totally different desserts (9-13 euros). Zoldering has an in depth and fascinating wine record, with a wide selection of wines by the glass and cheap markups (particularly for the costlier wines). Château d’Yquem by the glass is 75 euros — which isn’t costly in any respect when you take into account {that a} bottle retails for about 400 euros.

We began with a pleasant glass of champagne, a Domaine Lagille Grande Réserve, produced from equal components of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir, and aged at the least 5 years on the lees earlier than disgorgement. I had requested Job to pair wines with the dishes we had chosen from the menu.

As a primary chew I had a toasted piece of brioche with a sardine fillet and a scrumptious salsa verde on prime. The salsa verde had nice steadiness; sadly I forgot to take a photograph. This was accompanied by a area mix of 9 totally different grapes from Dâo in Portugal, properly balanced and complicated.

The next wine was the 2020 Sec du Château Closiot from Barsac, France. As candy Sauternes (and its lesser-known neighbor Barsac) are sadly changing into much less standard, many wineries there have moved to creating dry wines. This was a mix of 70% Sémillon and 30% Sauvignon Gris, aged in oak. It had a really good minerality and nice texture.

For each wine, Job first pours a single sip, so you may style it earlier than deciding to have a full glass. I don’t bear in mind the wine that he got here up with first, however I didn’t take care of that one, and this tasty white Bordeaux was with Job got here up with as a substitute.

It was pairing for the uncooked purple mullet with toasted hazelnut, a crispy sauce that included beurre noisette, and capers from ramps. From the outline of “beurre noisette” I had anticipated a extra buttery sauce, nevertheless it was really fairly crisp, and a pleasant distinction with the toasted hazelnuts. The purple mullet was impeccably contemporary; this was a really good dish.

The wine for the primary course was a Langhe Nebbiolo by Borgogno e Carbone. Medium-bodied with a pleasant aroma. By itself the tannins have been fairly highly effective, however with the meat it was very good.

The dish was Iberico pork fillet (lomo) with charcoal grilled runner beans and a scrumptious sauce. The pork was very tender, juicy, and flavorful, and cooked good. The smoky runner beans have been nice with it. I’d describe the sauce as a connoisseur model of barbecue sauce. The distinction between the tender meat and the crunchy beans was additionally very good. The beans have been completely cooked — runner beans will be crunchy in a ‘squeeky’ approach that’s disagreeable, and that was not the case right here in any respect.

I had some “Lazuli” blue cheese, a Dutch model of Gorgonzola, to go together with…

…a glass of 2000 Grande Maison Monbazillac Cuvée du Château. This Monbazillac was properly aged with an aroma of saffron.

For dessert I opted for a Xixarito Pedro Ximénez sherry, aged for about 15 years in a solera, with a whopping 400 grams of residual sugar per litre. Very complicated and balanced, regardless of the excessive sugar content material.

It was a wonderful pairing for the darkish chocolate parfait with hazelnuts, pistachios, pecans, and bastogne (Speculoos-type cookies). You may’t see the chocolate parfait as a result of it was fully coated by the (frivolously toasted) nuts.

I believe it’s clear why that is certainly one of my favourite eating places. Informal, not pretentious, however top quality of dishes and wines, pleasant service, and really inexpensive. I’ll be again quickly!



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